I’m wondering if the orcas will spoil my 66th birthday. They’re charging toward me at high speed, their speed and improbably large dorsal fins betraying their identity and emphasizing their ferocity. In the depths below me the coho salmon which has just seized my cut herring bait is having a bad day which could get rapidly worse if the orcas home in on its struggles. At least in its battle with me the salmon stands a chance, for if it doesn’t throw the barbless hook I might release it alive anyway. But the orcas will likely swallow it whole, even though the salmon weighs about 7 kilograms.
Such was the scene on 3rd of August, 2011 in the deeply channelled coastal waters of northern British Columbia, Canada. I and a couple of fellow Australians, all friends from Army days and keen anglers, were having the time of our dwindling lives. Living for a week aboard the Parry, a 70 year old tugboat now refitted as a mother ship, we were fishing as often as we could, making new friends among the crew and other nine guests and absorbing scenery completely different from the sub tropical environment of our home in Australia.
We were in the capable hands of Westwind Tugboat Adventures and had flown from eastern Australia to Vancouver, on the opposite side of the Pacific Ocean, specifically for this once in a lifetime adventure. Westwind’s motto is “Follow the fish” and that is what they do, following the annual summer migration of salmon as they leave the ocean for their freshwater spawning grounds, never to return.
After an overnight rest in Vancouver it was easy for us to join the other nine guests, all from USA, at the South Terminal of Vancouver Airport. Here Kathy Jordan of Westwind made sure all was shipshape before the next leg, the flight to Bella Bella, the remote port where Parry and her crew of five were waiting to welcome us. This 90 minute flight is an adventure by itself especially for Australians who rarely see snow-capped mountain peaks embedded in seemingly never-ending waterways. Make sure you get a window seat.
City formality eases as we alight at Bella Bella's tiny airport, on the edge of the wilderness. Now it’s a short bus ride from here, through the village to the wharf. Parry is docked here, her clutch of fishing skiffs and her fluttering flags hinting of the adventures to come. In a trice the twelve guests board, and the smell of freshly brewed coffee and freshly baked hot biscuits mixes with the bustle of the crew as Parry gets underway toward our first overnight anchorage and fishing spot.
The priority is fishing, but fishing without a licence is illegal. Accordingly, while guests settle into their accommodation and find their way around the vessel, one member of the crew, Jodie, concentrates on issuing the licences, one guest at a time. Simultaneously the two youthful fishing guides Trevor and Zac begin to fit-out guests with the outdoor clothing essential to the task. Meanwhile, Morgan, the cook, is busy in the galley. The skipper and owner of Westwind, Bob Jordan, is in the wheelhouse guiding Parry through the maze of waterways that he knows as well as anyone.
Our integration into the Westwind operation runs smoothly so that by the time we reach our overnight anchorage we’ve all been briefed and prepared and are ready to go fishing in the few hours of daylight left.
All fishing is from one of eight skiffs which the Parry tows when moving between anchorages. The skiffs are rugged yet comfortable specially-designed fishing platforms ideal for the purpose, being fitted out with 4-stroke outboard motors, sonar and VHF radio. There are six skiffs for guests who are permitted to operate them without supervision. If they prefer, guests can fish from the skiffs operated by the fishing guides. All fishing equipment is provided but guests are free to use their own.
90 second video of fishing
Sometimes the strike is abrupt and the bend in the rod accompanied by the mechanical scream of the reel’s alarm galvanize all in the skiff into action. But sometimes the only sign of possible interest is a small movement of the rod tip as a fish “mouthes” the bait. In the latter case the skill of the angler comes to the fore because the bait needs to be “fed” to the fish to encourage a solid “take”. In either case a successful hookup will result in a tussle which can be won by the fish or the angler. The fight is characterized by fast “runs” by the fish either at depth, or more spectacularly, on the surface, and thrashing jumps of up to two metres.
Daily and weekly bag limits are in place and this sensibly reduces the pressure on the fishery. Most anglers on our trip managed to catch their limit and several chose to release hooked fish, alive and vigorous, even though their tally was less than the limit. It must be borne in mind however that all salmon caught and kept would have died very soon anyway, in accordance with their natural life cycle.
Life aboard the Parry for guests is relaxing and comfortable. All food and drink is included in the package and the generous meals are served to guests seated at communal tables in the saloon on the main deck. Once aboard, guests are free to fish or not, or to make independent sight-seeing excursions by boat, or where appropriate, on foot. At all times fresh coffee and tea are available as well as snacks fresh from the kitchen. Cabins each contain two beds and storage space for personal items. Nearby are three bathrooms which are more than adequate for the number of guests embarked, with seemingly unlimited supplies of hot water for showering. The top deck provides a large open space for a sun deck or a space for socializing and the occasional barbecue.
Scenery is one of the extra attractions of this adventure. At all times we are close to land and we spend nights anchored in secluded coves which are often fringed by sandy beaches. The land itself is mountainous and densely clothed in cypress and fir trees. Waterfalls commonly tumble down to the rugged coastline from the snow capped heights while sheer bluffs whose bases are deep underwater rise vertically to dizzy heights. Sometimes the weather is foggy and an all enveloping mist turns the entire background white but hangs like lace among foreground trees. Mostly, the air is clear enough to see the distant peaks and the winds are light, allowing the sea to become a giant mirror.
In all of this there are wild creatures: land mammals, marine mammals, fish and birds. Bald eagles are common as are several other raptors which I couldn’t identify. Seagulls and numerous other birds whose livelihood comes from the sea are almost always in view. Land mammals are less commonly seen, mainly because of the dense vegetation cover, but this land is the home of deer, bears and wolves all of which may be sighted by guests. But the sea mammals are most common, and for most people, most interesting and unusual. Seals, dolphins, orcas and whales are nearly always encountered by the Parry. In fact the dolphins clearly seek out human company and frequently surf on the bow wave as Parry is under way. And I personally witnessed and photographed humpback whales feeding on herring one afternoon while I was alone in a skiff.
11 second video of humpback whale surfacing
30 second video of dolphins playing in Parry's bow wave
But the fishing is the main attraction. The sheer abundance of salmon is a surprise to most of us and after a couple of days the more experienced anglers, even those who’ve never fished in this way before, are catching their share of salmon. Other species are available, some large, some small, but all of interest to serious anglers. The next most sought after species is the halibut, a fish whose flesh is delicious and whose size can be impressive. One of us Australians secured the biggest of this species on our adventure.
But the adventure nears its end. Eventually we face the inevitable tasks of packing for the return journey and farewelling our new found friends. Parry is heading for the wharf at Bella Bella once more. Tomorrow the next twelve guests come aboard and take our places while we have returned to civilization and its benefits and failings.
But in our backpacks we have the ultimate souvenir of our adventure. There in cryovac packaging and frozen, each of us Australians is taking home our maximum allowance of five kilograms of salmon fillets from fish we have caught ourselves. And the orcas didn't eat my birthday salmon, an 18 pounder whose succulent fillets are now in my backpack. Westwind has organized this for us too, just as it does for the guests from USA whose salmon import allowances are much more generous. The fish bound for Australia is required to be professionally packaged and this is all available on board Parry, to the satisfaction of Australia’s Quarantine Inspection Service, whose stringent inspector, after satisfying himself as to the quality of the packaging, with a knowing wink ushers us back into Australia.
If you get the opportunity, do this trip.
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